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Chateau de Fargues Sauternes 2003While Chteau dYquem was sold to LVMH in the late 1990s, Chteau de Fargues remains under the control of the Lur Saluces family, with Alexandres friendly and highly capable son Philippe at the helm today. Their lone wine is produced from 80% Smillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, harvested with meticulous care to only include pristinely botrytized fruit, with yields averaging less than a glass of wine per vine. It is aged for two full years in one third new

and sometimes for years

and the oak’s subtle grace note adds a hint of appealing suaveness

We have witnessed this wine at thirty-plus years of age displaying vibrant

also known as Chasselas

” The Luigi Oddero estate owns a hectare of south-facing vines in these old

This wine is aged in barrel (about one-third new oak) and undergoes some batonnage

parcel of Fiano between 20–30 years of age planted in the volcanic clay-limestone soils of Lapio

the nose is pointed with a refreshing cherry fruit

there is no sense of overextraction here

As with their flagship Blanc de Blancs

this is even finer and more lithe—a reflection of the vineyard’s preponderance of sand—but equally harmonious on the palate

almond nougat